Thursday, May 24 2012 The Mark Restaurant

The Mark Restaurant by Jean-Georges

25 East 77^th Street

A couple of times a year, we meet with Stephen when he is in NYC on business.  He was staying at the Mark Hotel and had dined at its restaurant several times.  The Mark Restaurant by Jean- Georges with its soft, flattering lighting and comfortable seating appeals to the affluent local neighbors on the UES.  Although Jean- Georges Vongerichten may have wanted to create an exciting venue, he never seems to take a risk at this good, but not great, restaurant.  The menu presents no surprises and this comfort level is appealing to its clientele.  The portions are reasonable and the preparations are well-executed.  Yet, one longs for the imagination of the master chef that created the flagship restaurant in the Trump International Hotel.

The humachi sushi appetizer of thinly-sliced raw fish that was delicately layered with slivers of avocado and served in a soy-yuzi dressing was intriguing.  This dish had a hint of caper that sharpened the delightful mixture. Bread and butter is always worth a mention at Restaurant Epiphany, and here, at the Mark, a large slice of tasty, albeit cold, whole wheat bread was served.  It is not clear why the portion of butter was only enough for one, but more importantly, the wait staff did not seem to notice this deficiency.  Surprisingly, much of the service was not professional.  The entrees were not presented simultaneously, and it made us reminisce for the original Jean Georges delivery.  Fortunately, the seasoning of the entree of salmon bok choy and with ginger–chili vinaigrette subtly and superbly blended the texture of the salmon with the crunchy mouth feel of the bok choy.

The Mark is a place to settle in, have a good meal and walk home.  It is not a restaurant designed for a special occasion unless you are celebrating a slight uptick in your stock portfolio.  The desserts bear this out.  Unfortunately, even the descriptions are boring

Friday May 11, 2012 Candle Cafe West

Candle Café West

2427 Broadway

Candle Café West is the third iteration of a restaurant at this location, and this recent incarnation is vegetarian.  The addition of high-tech, soothing lighting and higher ceilings is a definite improvement to the décor.  The front desk has its act together, and Bob, Linda, Ed and I were seated within minutes of our reservation.  The menu is varied and has noodle dishes, stir-fries, salads and sandwiches.

Perfecting vegetarian cooking is always an up-hill battle.  Ingredients that are healthy do not always lend themselves to presentation.  The seitan chimichurri appetizer that is marinated in citrus-herb was served on skewers and successfully blended the lemon marinade with the salty flavor of the seitan.  Seitan or wheat meat is a protein source for vegetarians, but its limp grey appearance and stringy texture does not lend itself to skewers.

It is always a tricky act for the wait staff to balance the correct level of friendliness with professionalism.  Without skipping a beat, our waiter told us his favorites on the menu and presented those that dared not to order from his list a scowl.  He was one step away from inviting himself to join our party, and although I found it annoying, my fellow diners were pleased.  Candle Café West works hard at perfecting every aspect of the service so perhaps our waiter was following the mantra of the manager.  The entrees arrived simultaneously, and this touch always obviates the need to wait and get angry because food is getting cold.  With this out of the way, we could all focus on our food which got mixed reviews.  The best thing that I could say about my ginger miso stir fry was that it was served hot.  The tasteless overcooked vegetables were combined with miniscule pieces of tofu and served over brown rice. Fortunately, it was a small portion.  However, the Paradise Casserole with gentle layers of sweet potato and black beans served over greens and the Mediterranean Wrap with hummus, tofu, feta cheese and roasted red peppers received kudos.  The “Sweet & Sour Seitan was neither sweet nor sour and was totally devoid of taste.

A restaurant that bills itself as “vegetarian” should be proof to any carnivore that vegetarians can be innovative and serve unique fare.  Candle Café West falls short.

Wednesday, May 9, 2012 Ozu

Ozu

565 Amsterdam Avenue

“An Evening with Chris Mathews” at the JCC ended at 9:00PM, and a light meal was in order.  We all decided to go to a neighborhood place, and Bobbie suggested Ozu, a vegetarian restaurant on Amsterdam and 87^th Street. I seem to remember that when Bobbie’s studio was on 88^th Street, we met at Ozu for tea.  I should have stopped there.  My appetizer of steamed kale and hijiki topped with carrot dressing would have worked for people on a soft food diet with the pureed ingredients totally lacking in any seasoning and unceremoniously dumped on the plate.  Teeth, however, were required for the bland salmon rolls made with brown rice that was too hard and sushi that was not bite size.  Ed’s tofu was prepared in a way that delicately balanced the coconut and the curry, but it was delivered lukewarm.

Sunday, May 6, 2012 Nonna

Nonna

520 Columbus Avenue

My foodie friend Steve Kaufman recommended Nonna, and since we were having dinner with Helen and Alfred, an Italian restaurant in the neighborhood was perfect..  Nonna met the two main dining requirements for Helen --- reasonably priced and and a menu containing eggplant parmigiana. The bar at Nonna is nicely anointed with soft touches of lighting and liquor bottles that were displayed in a way that allowed the colored contents to glimmer. The restaurant area unfortunately is not a continuation of the bar and is drab and dreary.

Nonna tries hard in the service area, but there is a mismatch at what Noona thinks it can deliver and what it winds up serving. Nonna’s attempt at innovative cuisine turns out to be fussy and does not work.  Ed’s branzino had oranges on top which robbed the poor fish of its natural taste and turned it into a fruity mess.

Alfred orderd the  “Sunday Feast for $19 “ which turned out to be mostly misses. Alfred generously shared this “feast,” and we all wound up having tastes.  The starting course of arancini, a mozzarella-stuffed fried rice ball was heavy and lacked texture.  Unfortunately, this turned out to be no match for the fried dessert of zeppole which was difficult to chew. The courses in between were not much better.  A Caesar salad with  six large croutons was ordinary in its presentation. The best thing one could say about the pasta dish with sausage, beef tips and meatballs was its size, but this odd meat combination was dry and the tomato sauce was non-inspirational.  And, alas the raison d’etre for eating at Nonna in the first place---Helen’s eggplant parmigiana.   Nonna’s rendition lacked the traditional layering of eggplant and gooey cheese and did not make it on to Helen’s top “10” list.

Friday, May 4, 2012 Malecon

Malecon

764 Amsterdam Avenue

We went with Heidi and Bernie to Malecon, a Caribbean restaurant on the UWS that bills itself as “El Rey del Pollo” or “King of the Roast Chicken.”  How right they are!  In the window, there was a rotisserie with chicken in varying degrees of preparation. Inside, on the left, a long line of people were waiting for take-out orders. On the right, wooden tables were filled with families and couples with their dishes overflowing with food and colorful drinks with umbrellas. This Caribbean enclave looked like fun!  The oversized menu offered daily specials and listed over 100 items

Malecon knows its audience and knows that fancy is not their style.  Malecon’s goal is to serve tasty, well-prepared Caribbean food and have its patrons feel comfortable. Where else could a beautiful salad be served with packets of dressing on the side!  Heidi and I each ordered the half chicken which was scrumptious.  All the seasoning exploded together on the bird and each bite was wonderful.  Yet, it was served on a plate that was a size too small so that the chicken required the hands of a surgeon to ensure that it did not fall off the plate.  A side of steamed vegetables accompanied the meal.   Ed ordered the grilled branzino and a side of crispy fried plantains which more than satisfied his palate.

Wednesday, May 2, 2012 Mermaid Inn

Mermaid Inn

568 Amsterdam Avenue

A glass of wine after a one hour dental appointment is always a good idea…..especially if it is at night.  Ed and I planned to meet after my dental appointment at The Mark Hotel on 77^th Street and Madison and head to the bar, but by the time we arrived, there were no empty seats and an obnoxious maître d’. It was 7:30, ,and  we were hungry so we decided to try The Mermaid Inn, a popular restaurant that is a block from our home and located  on Amsterdam and 87^th Street.   We had previously dismissed the idea of dining here because our experience at the bar was less than memorable.  Tonight, we were seated immediately in the back room which to that point we did not know existed.  The room had a country inn feel,  and although the seating was rather close,  the noise level was fine. 

It still is not clear why a restaurant chooses to serve wine in a glass that is more appropriate for a dinner at a bar mitzvah.  For those that are knowledgeable about wine, it does not give them the opportunity to swish and for those who just enjoy a glass of wine with their meal, part of the allure is a good pour that is served in an attractive glass.  The Mermaid Inn serves flatbread crackers with butter instead of bread which would be OK if the crackers were fresher and two guests were not allotted four crackers. The service and the timing of the meal was fine.  Mermaid caters to fish lovers, and except for the lone pork chops, the raw bar, appetizers and entrees are from the sea. There are several interesting choices, and Ed chose the grilled whole fish of the day which was a branzino which was well prepared with a crispy outside and tender fish. The entrée does not include a side which brings the price with an added vegetable to a steep $34.   At this price point, it is reasonable to expect well prepared food in a better than average venue.  My meal consisted of two appetizers of mussels and a chopped salad.  Perhaps it was my own lack of adventure that should be blamed for this less than exciting meal.  Yet, the mussels  in a boring red curry broth with smoked bacon and escarole with battling flavors made  this diner feel like the loser.  The main attribute of the salad was that it was big.

I am told that the Sunday lobster special for $24 is worth trying.  Perhaps…………………………

Saturday, March 24, 2012 Wallse

Wallse
344 West 11^th Street

We were having dinner with Jim and Laurie, and it was their turn to venture in to Manhattan from Westchester.  First impressions are lasting, and we were optimistic that this was the case at Wallse, a pricey Austrian nouveau cuisine restaurant in the West Village. When we first walked in to the enchanting dining room with modern posters on white brick walls and lighting that was carefully selected to exemplify coziness,  we were more than hopeful that the old adage would be accurate.  Each bite of our appetizers of gently seared scallops in tomato-clam ragout was sublime, and we waited in anticipation for our entrées.  And waited.   And we finally did the unthinkable in a restaurant at this level---- we asked our server who assured us that our meals would be served in two minutes.  The two minutes came and went, and when we asked our server again, he finally arranged for their arrival.  One can expect a high correlation between the appropriate timing and pacing of the meal and the price-point. This was not the situation at Wallse.  We decided to move on and enjoy our entrée.  We also expected the server to know who had ordered which dish.  Alas, we could have been at any upscale diner in Westchester.

 Laurie ordered the signature dish of Wiener Schnitzel with potato cucumber salad and lingonberries which was a fried blob of veal that unceremoniously filled the plate.  Laurie thought it was tasty, but the presentation was so poor that it left us wondering in which restaurant the pictures of the food on the website were taken.  Both Jim and Ed ordered the pan seared brook trout.  What was presented was an oversized piece of luke-warm salty fish that was plopped on the plate without garnishes or even vegetables.  The vegetables were listed as an a la carte order.  My $42 entrée of smoked squab with foie gras and truffled endive turned out to be so miniscule that a quick calculation clocked it in at about $7 a bite.  That might have been acceptable had the chef been more careful with the salt.

The dessert chef must have been on the same page as the chef.  Not only did the desserts lack the artistic creativity that one would expect here, they screamed out for taste. 

Wallse has a way to go before it reaches the levels of similarly charging brethren.  The best part of the meal was being seated next to Sacha Baron Cohen and his wife Isla Fisher which provided us with endless mealtime conversation and glances.  It should be noted that the timing of their meal was perfect.

Friday March 16, 2012 The Modern

The Modern

9 West 53^rd Street 

A benefit of the Modern restaurant is that one can check your coat and then head off to the MOMA before returning later to dine.  That turned out to be a particularly advantageous perk since Friday nights are free at the museum, and it was crowded.  We met Jeff and Anita in the lobby and headed to the photography exhibit of Cindy Sherman on the sixth floor.  Its grotesque, bizarre photos of women instantly made a connection to Sherman’s feminist world.   Yet, her images left us with anger, confusion and frustration, and the question of how we were going to make the transition from this highly energized moment to a peaceful dinner lingered.   Once we were inside the restaurant, it became clear.   The serenity of the restaurant and the tranquil nature of the staff provided the answer.

The seating configuration in the glass enclosed dining room provides all seats with a view of the sculpture garden.  And this artistry memorably continues on with the sumptuous food, personalized service and pleasing table settings.  The Modern offers several prix fixe alternatives and each can have a wine pairing.  Our selection included two appetizers, entrée and dessert.  The presentation was exquisite, and in most cases was matched by the quality of the food and the service.  And then the Modern adds its own unique touches!   Both cows’ milk and goats’ milk butter were served with delicious rolls that were placed on the table in a bread vase made of glass.  Our server lovingly described in detail each dish as it was served.    With the desserts and coffee, we were more than satisfied.   Yet, we were then presented with an interesting, but unnecessary, mini  ice cream cone.    And then the multi-tiered cart containing the fantasy of all chocolate lovers with every kind of chocolate imaginable was rolled to our table.   In this Willy Wonka world, we were instructed to choose our favorites, but we were so overwhelmed with the selection that we deferred to our server’s expertise.   Less is always more in a high end establishment and the restaurant’s objective to dazzle us with unnecessary extras made it feel more like the endless dessert courses at a bar mitzvah. 

Yet, the evening was so wonderful and the unparalleled dinner at the Modern was so stellar that these minor missteps were overlooked.  We were not all that surprised to find out that this lovely dinner lasted three hours.  

Friday, March 9, 2012 Rowdy Hall

Rowdy Hall

10 Main Street     East Hampton, New York 

The Citarella branch in East Hampton closes at 7:00pm, and we had missed this deadline for buying dinner by 15 minutes.  Always wanted to try this restaurant tucked away in the alley near the movie house, and now we had our chance. It was surprisingly crowded for this Friday night in early March, but we managed to get seated immediately. The crowd was local and lacked the summer East Hampton vibe. Rowdy Hall is a restaurant trying to be a pub. The lighting is a shade too bright, and although this would never be a romantic getaway, Rowdy Hall could dabble in the 'cozy' world by just lowering the dimmer.

To start, Ed had a 'black and blue' beer which is a layered concoction of a dark Guinness on the top and a light Belgian lemon-flavored beer below it. I always encourage Ed to order fish & chips when it is on the menu since I can try the fries and not have to order an entire portion that I could not resist.  This scrumptious super size entree was presented in a newspaper that was shaped like a boat and designed to sop up the extra oil from the fish and chips. My interesting and tasty vegetarian entree of grilled acorn squash and spinach was covered with crumbly feta cheese and toasted pine nuts. Rowdy Hall's big surprise was near perfect warm rolls. Rowdy Hall is a casual, well priced option that is worth a another look. However, Rowdy Hall might consider adding more entree salads and increasing the selection of burgers which seems to be the go-to favorite here.

Sunday, February 26, 2012 Dovetail

Dovetail

103 West 77^th Street

We almost passed it by.  Dovetail is so unobtrusive and tucked away off Columbus Avenue that we had to look for the address to find it.  Once inside, we were home.  The soft peach, grey and dark green furnishings and the candles that surround the dining room provide an environment that is so cozy that one felt immediately comfortable.   First impressions went a long way in setting the tone for the evening at this gem of a restaurant.

On Sundays, Dovetail serves a three-course “Sunday Suppa” that is a bargain.  The chef’s sampler included a delectable mini-cornbread.  Dovetail does not serve traditional rolls or bread, and the cornbread serves as a replacement. Perhaps Dovetail is taking the culinary position that bread is an unnecessary filler that gets in the way of enjoying the quality of the meal. My appetizer of tuna ceviche was well-prepared and came with its own personalized description from the waiter.  Ed’s appetizer of mackerel in a lovely mustard sauce was wonderful.  It is always interesting to note a restaurant’s interpretation on the bouillabaisse entree.  There seems to be no correct way or formula.  More often than not, it is prepared like a fish stew.  Dovetail’s interesting take on this dish was unique.  Shellfish and grilled fish were served in a rouille,  a peppery garlic sauce that had a saffron hue.   Dovetail has replaced the regular selection of desserts on Sunday with a “create-your-own Sundae” course.    One has the choice of several flavors of ice cream or sorbet with all the accoutrements.  Understandably, the pastry chef needs a Sunday break but an ice cream only dessert was limiting and sundaes lent a tacky feel to a meal that deserves better.    

Friday, February 24, 2012 Le Bernardin

Le Bernardin

155  West 51^st Street 

Extraordinary, but…….  Ed received the call at 4:25PM, and we were good to go at 8PM for our dinner at Le Bernardin.  How awesome to be moved from the wait list to a reservation!  We had been at the renovated restaurant on opening night for a drink at the bar, but on my birthday night we were overwhelmed again with the architectural beauty, the striking photography on the main wall of ocean waves and the amazing floral arrangements that adorn the room.

It is difficult to find the appropriate superlative to describe the level of service.  It was extraordinary. It seemed as if we had a staff that was solely dedicated to serving our table.  The sommelier lovingly assisted us with our selection of wine and carefully monitored our glasses throughout the meal. She even presented the label of the wine enclosed in its own plastic sleeve. The wait staff was more than just attentive and friendly. They attuned themselves to our every need and relished in pleasing us.  When the table cloth became soiled, it was discreetly covered with clean napkins that provided camouflage.

The food varied between very good and excellent. The prix-fixe menu included two appetizers, entrée and dessert. For our first appetizer, we both had the lovely wild striped bass tartar with baby fennel and crispy artichoke. It was a decent-sized portion and was accompanied by paper-thin slices of toasted bread.  For my second appetizer, the rare yellowfin tuna over spiced gelee was interesting, but not wonderful.  Ed’s charred octopus in sun dried tomato sauce was sublime. The octopus was succulent and beautiful. A definite high point to the meal!   We were hopeful that the remainder of the meal would achieve such heights.  Ed’s entrée choice of crispy black bass was well- prepared, but the accompanying vegetable was laughable --- six quarter-sized pickled cucumbers on a tiny separate plate.  My entrée of baked Maine lobster was beautifully presented with a caramelized pear and was delicately sliced and arranged to its original shape. We must not forget to make mention of a critical element of the Restaurant Epiphany dialogue----the bread and butter.  A choice of six kinds of bread and rolls each with their own wonderful texture and taste were delivered to our table by a staff member who knew exactly the right moment to return to replenish. A silver-domed dish with softened butter (definitely not for Rene) was replaced simultaneously.

Then, there were the desserts.  You know how you cringe when you are at a party and someone asks you to cut a small piece, and it is never small enough.  Desserts at Le Bernardin would have risen to the occasion at that request.  The parting petit-fours had the same theme.

Extraordinary, but…..oh so memorable and definitely worth a return visit when seeking out that genre of restaurant.

Saturday, February 18, 2012 Ocean Grill

Ocean Grill

384 Columbus Avenue

To lure Jimmy and Martha out of the New Jersey suburbs into NYC for dinner, we had to think of a restaurant with a solid reputation.  Ocean Grill on the UWS is part of a group of seafood restaurants that have a following.  As one enters the restaurant, a formal staircase leads to two charming dining rooms on the second floor whose walls are anointed with oversized mirrors and beautiful sconces.  We were seated immediately and presented with a sample of the chef’s tasty white bean soup.  The warm whole-wheat rolls arrived simultaneously and received high marks for their texture.  Our waiter presented the specials with flair, and we were confident that our meal would be exciting.  The food is simple and well-prepared at Ocean Grill.  A problem is not the quality of the food but the staff’s failure to serve it in an elegant manner.  They reached over guests and carelessly placed dishes on the table.  Additionally, they failed to clear appetizer plates before the entrée was served.  When an establishment hits the mark so well on the food side of the ledger, it is unfortunate to see service drag it down.

Having the right energy at a restaurant is a fine balancing act with the noise level enhancing or diminishing the experience.  Ocean Grill is a vibrant spot with diners obviously enjoying their meals.  Yet, in the background, there is an unnecessary layer of music that turns that bustling dynamism into an environment where conversation is difficult.   

Friday February 17, 2012 La Vela

La Vela

373 Amsterdam Avenue

When my friend Ron suggested Italian fare, La Vela, a local Italian spot on West 77^th and Amsterdam Avenue came to mind.  The red-and-white checkered table cloths and brick walls gave the room that seated about 40 people a quaint touch.  Quality bread is an integral part of an Italian meal, and, here at La Vela,  both the standard Italian bread and the focaccia reminded us of industrial white bread.  La Vela’s strategy is to serve large quantities as a substitute for presentation, and each entrée lacked both the finesse and seasoning that would have lifted this neighborhood restaurant to the next level.  My black risotto with seafood dish was bland and had a dearth of seafood.  Ed’s order of rare grilled tuna was thinly sliced leaving the poor fish to quickly become room-temperature sushi.  Ron enjoyed his meal of Fruitti di Mare although from our vantage point the dish needed a larger plate.

Wednesday February 15, 2012 Osha Thai Kitchen

Osha Thai Kitchen

1711 Second Avenue

The best parts about dinner at Osha, a Thai restaurant,  on 88^th Street and Second Avenue were the crispy calamari and getting to spend time with our nephew Michael (not necessarily in that order).  This compact spot is convenient to UESers and has a large selection of noodles, salads, meat and vegetarian fare that is satisfactory with a price point that is hard to beat.            

Sunday, February 12, 2012 Mamajuana Cafe

Mamajuana Cafe
570 Amsterdam Avenue

Adhering to the Restaurant Epiphany mandate requires creativity and dedication when the thermometer is below freezing and one is looking for a local restaurant.  It seems that we have almost exhausted all the restaurants in the five block radius near our house. We were going out to dinner with my sister and her friend Ron who is from North Carolina. He thinks that anything below 50 degrees is like Alaska so we could not venture too far on foot. 

We went to Mamajuana Café, a new restaurant to the neighborhood,  that serves Latino cuisine.  The food and service were mediocre, a problem that could be attributed to growing pains. More importantly, the management did not read the bible used by restaurant gurus who know how patrons should and like to be treated.  At Mamajuana, one could order guacamole with chips from the menu.  Ed just wanted the chips and was more than willing to pay for them.  A lengthy discussion ensued with the waiter, and he reluctantly finally brought a plate of seven chips to the table.  Another misstep was that a charge was added to our bill for additional condiment to augment the miniscule portion that came with the entrée.  Penny wise and dollar foolish! 

Friday, February 10, 2012 Persepolis

Persepolis
1407 Second Avenue

We were in the Cayman Islands for a few days, and on the second leg of our return journey from Miami, we found ourselves next to a NYC dentist who is of Iranian descent.  Talking about restaurants proves to be quite an equalizer.  People start writing lists of their favorites. His list, of course, included the names of his favorite Iranian restaurants. I never realized there was a choice.  Persepolis, located on the UES on 2^nd Avenue in the 70s was his favorite.

For our appetizer, we shared a ‘three-yogurt medley’ that was smooth, creamy and definitely worth trying. Yet, it was difficult to distinguish one yogurt from another, and they were served on plates that clearly needed updating.   As a matter of fact, the entire restaurant needed a facelift. 

 My entree of grilled saffron marinated shrimp was delicious, but it was not prepared in a manner that was strikingly exotic.  It was accompanied by spinach and a choice of a rice side.  Our waiter recommended the ‘sour cherry rice'  --- the signature dish of the restaurant.  Had I not known this was the specialty, I probably would have concluded that Persians prefer their rice on the dry side. For those that enjoy diner-size portions, Persepolis is the place to head.