Friday March 16, 2012 The Modern

The Modern

9 West 53^rd Street 

A benefit of the Modern restaurant is that one can check your coat and then head off to the MOMA before returning later to dine.  That turned out to be a particularly advantageous perk since Friday nights are free at the museum, and it was crowded.  We met Jeff and Anita in the lobby and headed to the photography exhibit of Cindy Sherman on the sixth floor.  Its grotesque, bizarre photos of women instantly made a connection to Sherman’s feminist world.   Yet, her images left us with anger, confusion and frustration, and the question of how we were going to make the transition from this highly energized moment to a peaceful dinner lingered.   Once we were inside the restaurant, it became clear.   The serenity of the restaurant and the tranquil nature of the staff provided the answer.

The seating configuration in the glass enclosed dining room provides all seats with a view of the sculpture garden.  And this artistry memorably continues on with the sumptuous food, personalized service and pleasing table settings.  The Modern offers several prix fixe alternatives and each can have a wine pairing.  Our selection included two appetizers, entrée and dessert.  The presentation was exquisite, and in most cases was matched by the quality of the food and the service.  And then the Modern adds its own unique touches!   Both cows’ milk and goats’ milk butter were served with delicious rolls that were placed on the table in a bread vase made of glass.  Our server lovingly described in detail each dish as it was served.    With the desserts and coffee, we were more than satisfied.   Yet, we were then presented with an interesting, but unnecessary, mini  ice cream cone.    And then the multi-tiered cart containing the fantasy of all chocolate lovers with every kind of chocolate imaginable was rolled to our table.   In this Willy Wonka world, we were instructed to choose our favorites, but we were so overwhelmed with the selection that we deferred to our server’s expertise.   Less is always more in a high end establishment and the restaurant’s objective to dazzle us with unnecessary extras made it feel more like the endless dessert courses at a bar mitzvah. 

Yet, the evening was so wonderful and the unparalleled dinner at the Modern was so stellar that these minor missteps were overlooked.  We were not all that surprised to find out that this lovely dinner lasted three hours.  

Friday, March 9, 2012 Rowdy Hall

Rowdy Hall

10 Main Street     East Hampton, New York 

The Citarella branch in East Hampton closes at 7:00pm, and we had missed this deadline for buying dinner by 15 minutes.  Always wanted to try this restaurant tucked away in the alley near the movie house, and now we had our chance. It was surprisingly crowded for this Friday night in early March, but we managed to get seated immediately. The crowd was local and lacked the summer East Hampton vibe. Rowdy Hall is a restaurant trying to be a pub. The lighting is a shade too bright, and although this would never be a romantic getaway, Rowdy Hall could dabble in the 'cozy' world by just lowering the dimmer.

To start, Ed had a 'black and blue' beer which is a layered concoction of a dark Guinness on the top and a light Belgian lemon-flavored beer below it. I always encourage Ed to order fish & chips when it is on the menu since I can try the fries and not have to order an entire portion that I could not resist.  This scrumptious super size entree was presented in a newspaper that was shaped like a boat and designed to sop up the extra oil from the fish and chips. My interesting and tasty vegetarian entree of grilled acorn squash and spinach was covered with crumbly feta cheese and toasted pine nuts. Rowdy Hall's big surprise was near perfect warm rolls. Rowdy Hall is a casual, well priced option that is worth a another look. However, Rowdy Hall might consider adding more entree salads and increasing the selection of burgers which seems to be the go-to favorite here.

Sunday, February 26, 2012 Dovetail

Dovetail

103 West 77^th Street

We almost passed it by.  Dovetail is so unobtrusive and tucked away off Columbus Avenue that we had to look for the address to find it.  Once inside, we were home.  The soft peach, grey and dark green furnishings and the candles that surround the dining room provide an environment that is so cozy that one felt immediately comfortable.   First impressions went a long way in setting the tone for the evening at this gem of a restaurant.

On Sundays, Dovetail serves a three-course “Sunday Suppa” that is a bargain.  The chef’s sampler included a delectable mini-cornbread.  Dovetail does not serve traditional rolls or bread, and the cornbread serves as a replacement. Perhaps Dovetail is taking the culinary position that bread is an unnecessary filler that gets in the way of enjoying the quality of the meal. My appetizer of tuna ceviche was well-prepared and came with its own personalized description from the waiter.  Ed’s appetizer of mackerel in a lovely mustard sauce was wonderful.  It is always interesting to note a restaurant’s interpretation on the bouillabaisse entree.  There seems to be no correct way or formula.  More often than not, it is prepared like a fish stew.  Dovetail’s interesting take on this dish was unique.  Shellfish and grilled fish were served in a rouille,  a peppery garlic sauce that had a saffron hue.   Dovetail has replaced the regular selection of desserts on Sunday with a “create-your-own Sundae” course.    One has the choice of several flavors of ice cream or sorbet with all the accoutrements.  Understandably, the pastry chef needs a Sunday break but an ice cream only dessert was limiting and sundaes lent a tacky feel to a meal that deserves better.