Dovetail
103 West 77th Street
We almost passed it by. Dovetail is so unobtrusive and tucked away off Columbus Avenue that we had to look for the address to find it. Once inside, we were home. The soft peach, grey and dark green furnishings and the candles that surround the dining room provide an environment that is so cozy that one felt immediately comfortable. First impressions went a long way in setting the tone for the evening at this gem of a restaurant.
On Sundays, Dovetail serves a three-course “Sunday Suppa” that is a bargain. The chef’s sampler included a delectable mini-cornbread. Dovetail does not serve traditional rolls or bread, and the cornbread serves as a replacement. Perhaps Dovetail is taking the culinary position that bread is an unnecessary filler that gets in the way of enjoying the quality of the meal. My appetizer of tuna ceviche was well-prepared and came with its own personalized description from the waiter. Ed’s appetizer of mackerel in a lovely mustard sauce was wonderful. It is always interesting to note a restaurant’s interpretation on the bouillabaisse entree. There seems to be no correct way or formula. More often than not, it is prepared like a fish stew. Dovetail’s interesting take on this dish was unique. Shellfish and grilled fish were served in a rouille, a peppery garlic sauce that had a saffron hue. Dovetail has replaced the regular selection of desserts on Sunday with a “create-your-own Sundae” course. One has the choice of several flavors of ice cream or sorbet with all the accoutrements. Understandably, the pastry chef needs a Sunday break but an ice cream only dessert was limiting and sundaes lent a tacky feel to a meal that deserves better.
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