Thursday, July 12, 2012

Thursday, May 24 2012 The Mark Restaurant


The Mark Restaurant by Jean-Georges

25 East 77th Street
A couple of times a year, we meet with Stephen when he is in NYC on business.  He was staying at the Mark Hotel and had dined at its restaurant several times.  The Mark Restaurant by Jean- Georges with its soft, flattering lighting and comfortable seating appeals to the affluent local neighbors on the UES.  Although Jean- Georges Vongerichten may have wanted to create an exciting venue, he never seems to take a risk at this good, but not great, restaurant.  The menu presents no surprises and this comfort level is appealing to its clientele.  The portions are reasonable and the preparations are well-executed.  Yet, one longs for the imagination of the master chef that created the flagship restaurant in the Trump International Hotel.
The humachi sushi appetizer of thinly-sliced raw fish that was delicately layered with slivers of avocado and served in a soy-yuzi dressing was intriguing.  This dish had a hint of caper that sharpened the delightful mixture. Bread and butter is always worth a mention at Restaurant Epiphany, and here, at the Mark, a large slice of tasty, albeit cold, whole wheat bread was served.  It is not clear why the portion of butter was only enough for one, but more importantly, the wait staff did not seem to notice this deficiency.  Surprisingly, much of the service was not professional.  The entrees were not presented simultaneously, and it made us reminisce for the original Jean Georges delivery.  Fortunately, the seasoning of the entree of salmon bok choy and with ginger–chili vinaigrette subtly and superbly blended the texture of the salmon with the crunchy mouth feel of the bok choy.
The Mark is a place to settle in, have a good meal and walk home.  It is not a restaurant designed for a special occasion unless you are celebrating a slight uptick in your stock portfolio.  The desserts bear this out.  Unfortunately, even the descriptions are boring

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