Friday May 11, 2012 Candle Cafe West

Candle Café West

2427 Broadway

Candle Café West is the third iteration of a restaurant at this location, and this recent incarnation is vegetarian.  The addition of high-tech, soothing lighting and higher ceilings is a definite improvement to the décor.  The front desk has its act together, and Bob, Linda, Ed and I were seated within minutes of our reservation.  The menu is varied and has noodle dishes, stir-fries, salads and sandwiches.

Perfecting vegetarian cooking is always an up-hill battle.  Ingredients that are healthy do not always lend themselves to presentation.  The seitan chimichurri appetizer that is marinated in citrus-herb was served on skewers and successfully blended the lemon marinade with the salty flavor of the seitan.  Seitan or wheat meat is a protein source for vegetarians, but its limp grey appearance and stringy texture does not lend itself to skewers.

It is always a tricky act for the wait staff to balance the correct level of friendliness with professionalism.  Without skipping a beat, our waiter told us his favorites on the menu and presented those that dared not to order from his list a scowl.  He was one step away from inviting himself to join our party, and although I found it annoying, my fellow diners were pleased.  Candle Café West works hard at perfecting every aspect of the service so perhaps our waiter was following the mantra of the manager.  The entrees arrived simultaneously, and this touch always obviates the need to wait and get angry because food is getting cold.  With this out of the way, we could all focus on our food which got mixed reviews.  The best thing that I could say about my ginger miso stir fry was that it was served hot.  The tasteless overcooked vegetables were combined with miniscule pieces of tofu and served over brown rice. Fortunately, it was a small portion.  However, the Paradise Casserole with gentle layers of sweet potato and black beans served over greens and the Mediterranean Wrap with hummus, tofu, feta cheese and roasted red peppers received kudos.  The “Sweet & Sour Seitan was neither sweet nor sour and was totally devoid of taste.

A restaurant that bills itself as “vegetarian” should be proof to any carnivore that vegetarians can be innovative and serve unique fare.  Candle Café West falls short.