July 14th 2026
Nick & Toni’s
Another year had gone by, and it was now time to plan for
the annual visit to East Hampton of our friends Martha and Jimmy. Historically, our dinners together consisted
of one-home cooked meal and one or two dinners at a restaurant. Nick & Toni had come highly recommended
to Martha, and she was eager to try it.
Ed and I had tried the pizza menu there many years ago so experiencing
the dinner menu for the first time would fall within the criterion for review
on Restaurant Epiphany.
The restaurant opened
in August 1988 and was created by Toni Ross and her husband Jeff Salaway whose
childhood nickname was ‘Nick” -- hence the name Nick & Toni’s. The
inspiration for the cooking is the ingredient style of Tuscan cooking, and the farmhouse
design was centered around its signature wood-burning oven. In its early days, the restaurant attracted
many celebrities, and today well-heeled residents are patrons. The greeter was cordial and welcoming and
quickly brought us to our table in this comfortable environment. We were close
to the wood-burning stove that could have been an issue had it not been for the
delightful air conditioning. The cool, calming colors of the surroundings
invited us immediately into the space. A glass of wine was definitely in order as we
browsed the menu. Turns out this farm to
table menu was easy to navigate with a dearth of items in the entrée column that
contained three fish dishes and only one chicken, one beef and one vegetarian
dish. We had barely taken a sip of our wine when the appetizers arrived. The Paccheri
– a burrata with tomato and pesto unfortunately lacked the creaminess one
expects in this traditional Tuscan dish and was notably under seasoned. Far more successful was the rosemary, thyme
and sea salt focchia. The accompanying
whipped honey ricotta was subtly sweet and delightful. We had almost finished
the last morsels of the appetizers when our plates and utensils were whisked
away with the entrees on their way.
Here is a suggestion
for restaurants: when more than one person orders a particular entrée: please
try and make sure that portions are equivalent in size. Alas, both Martha and I ordered the swordfish
dish with mine clearly on the larger size.
Martha obviously noticed and asked the server who claimed that although
the configurations of the fish were different, the weight was the same. Oh well! That being said, the swordfish was accompanied
by chickpeas and a divine sauce that was scrumptious. Jimmy, however, ordered the Penne alla Vecchia Bettola, a sad,
unadorned, plate of pasta covered with a large glob of tomato sauce.
Again, as the last
bite of the entrees was consumed, the
plates were swept away, and then on to the dessert. Martha’s friend had
recommended the Tartufo, a quite frozen caramel truffle with chocolate and
hazelnut gelato and almond biscotti crumbs.
Frozen proved to be the operative word: it was so solid that we had to
wait 15 minutes before we could actually attempt to eat it. Pleasant enough because there is always room
for ice cream but unremarkable.
In a rather delightful irony, after all the earlier rushing
and whisking away of dishes, no one seemed remotely interested in rushing us out. We were free to linger at the table – a
surprisingly gracious ending to an otherwise hurried evening.
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