Thursday, May 24 2012 The Mark Restaurant

The Mark Restaurant by Jean-Georges

25 East 77^th Street

A couple of times a year, we meet with Stephen when he is in NYC on business.  He was staying at the Mark Hotel and had dined at its restaurant several times.  The Mark Restaurant by Jean- Georges with its soft, flattering lighting and comfortable seating appeals to the affluent local neighbors on the UES.  Although Jean- Georges Vongerichten may have wanted to create an exciting venue, he never seems to take a risk at this good, but not great, restaurant.  The menu presents no surprises and this comfort level is appealing to its clientele.  The portions are reasonable and the preparations are well-executed.  Yet, one longs for the imagination of the master chef that created the flagship restaurant in the Trump International Hotel.

The humachi sushi appetizer of thinly-sliced raw fish that was delicately layered with slivers of avocado and served in a soy-yuzi dressing was intriguing.  This dish had a hint of caper that sharpened the delightful mixture. Bread and butter is always worth a mention at Restaurant Epiphany, and here, at the Mark, a large slice of tasty, albeit cold, whole wheat bread was served.  It is not clear why the portion of butter was only enough for one, but more importantly, the wait staff did not seem to notice this deficiency.  Surprisingly, much of the service was not professional.  The entrees were not presented simultaneously, and it made us reminisce for the original Jean Georges delivery.  Fortunately, the seasoning of the entree of salmon bok choy and with ginger–chili vinaigrette subtly and superbly blended the texture of the salmon with the crunchy mouth feel of the bok choy.

The Mark is a place to settle in, have a good meal and walk home.  It is not a restaurant designed for a special occasion unless you are celebrating a slight uptick in your stock portfolio.  The desserts bear this out.  Unfortunately, even the descriptions are boring

Friday May 11, 2012 Candle Cafe West

Candle Café West

2427 Broadway

Candle Café West is the third iteration of a restaurant at this location, and this recent incarnation is vegetarian.  The addition of high-tech, soothing lighting and higher ceilings is a definite improvement to the décor.  The front desk has its act together, and Bob, Linda, Ed and I were seated within minutes of our reservation.  The menu is varied and has noodle dishes, stir-fries, salads and sandwiches.

Perfecting vegetarian cooking is always an up-hill battle.  Ingredients that are healthy do not always lend themselves to presentation.  The seitan chimichurri appetizer that is marinated in citrus-herb was served on skewers and successfully blended the lemon marinade with the salty flavor of the seitan.  Seitan or wheat meat is a protein source for vegetarians, but its limp grey appearance and stringy texture does not lend itself to skewers.

It is always a tricky act for the wait staff to balance the correct level of friendliness with professionalism.  Without skipping a beat, our waiter told us his favorites on the menu and presented those that dared not to order from his list a scowl.  He was one step away from inviting himself to join our party, and although I found it annoying, my fellow diners were pleased.  Candle Café West works hard at perfecting every aspect of the service so perhaps our waiter was following the mantra of the manager.  The entrees arrived simultaneously, and this touch always obviates the need to wait and get angry because food is getting cold.  With this out of the way, we could all focus on our food which got mixed reviews.  The best thing that I could say about my ginger miso stir fry was that it was served hot.  The tasteless overcooked vegetables were combined with miniscule pieces of tofu and served over brown rice. Fortunately, it was a small portion.  However, the Paradise Casserole with gentle layers of sweet potato and black beans served over greens and the Mediterranean Wrap with hummus, tofu, feta cheese and roasted red peppers received kudos.  The “Sweet & Sour Seitan was neither sweet nor sour and was totally devoid of taste.

A restaurant that bills itself as “vegetarian” should be proof to any carnivore that vegetarians can be innovative and serve unique fare.  Candle Café West falls short.